In the past few years, the word “kale” has become synonymous with health, and not without good reason. This nutrient-packed member of the cabbage family is rich in vitamins and minerals and tastes good to boot! As if that weren’t enough to make you want to fill your garden with this tasty plant, most types of kale are also relatively easy to grow thanks to their ability to withstand cooler temperatures. Like many other hearty greens, the leaves’ flavor will actually improve if exposed to cooler temperatures, so light frosts are your friend instead of foe. There are many different varieties of kale, but almost all types are either purple or green in color with broad or curly leaves.

Not surprisingly, the White Russian variety is closely related to Red Russian kale and is similar in taste and appearance. However, Red Russian kale has purple veins while White Russian possesses (surprise!) white veins and a grey/green stalk. Just like its cousin, this kale is also considered to be one of the sweeter varieties and is particularly tasty when it’s been exposed to short periods of cool weather. If its sweet flavor and tolerance for the cold weren’t enough, this variety can also withstand soggy soil and less sunshine better than most other varieties, making it a great candidate for regions that receive quite a bit of rain.

  • Botanical Name: Brassica oleracae
  • Plant Type: Vegetable
  • Variety: Whie Russian
  • Growth Cycle: Annual
  • Season(s): Spring Summer Fall Winter
  • Climate Zone(s): 2a 2b 3a 3b 4b 5a 5b 6a 6b 7a 7b 8a 8b 9a 9b
  • Light: Full Sun Partial Shade
  • Soil Type(s): Loamy
  • Yield: 10–30 leaves per plant
  • Garden Dimensions: 1 plant per square foot
  • Germination: 7–14 days
  • Maturity: 50–60 days
  • Harvest: 45 days



Seed Depth: 1/4″
Space Between Plants: 2″, thin to 12–18″
Space Between Rows: 18–24″
Germination Soil Temperature: 45–90°F
Days for Germination: 7–14
Sow Indoors: 4–6 weeks before the average last frost, if starting a fall crop start 4–6 weeks before the first fall frost.
Sow Outdoors: 1–2 weeks before average last frost for a late spring/summer crop. For a fall crop, sow seeds in mid to late summer. You can also do successive sowing, starting in early spring and continuing every three weeks.

Vegetative: Not recommended, but can be vegetatively propagated by root or stem tip cutting.


Can be planted either in the spring just prior to the last frost or in the fall, leaving approximately 6 to 8 weeks before the first average frost for the plants to grow. In USDA Zones 8 and warmer, it can continue to be planted throughout the duration of the fall for harvest in the winter. Although plants will be richer in flavor when they are allowed to grow in cooler weather, they are tolerant of most climates.


Natural: Full sun. Will tolerate partial shade but with the trade-off of a lower yield.

Artificial: Although starts or seeds will sprout under most types of indoor lighting, kale responds particularly well to LED and fluorescent lights as they produce less heat than other sources.

Growing Media

Soil: Prefers a loamy, fertile soil with good drainage. A pH of a 5.5 to 7.0 will keep plants healthy and nourished, but a pH of 5.5 to 6.8 is ideal. If your soil has large amounts of clay or sand, try mixing in a soilless potting mix.

Soilless: Unlike other leafy greens, kale does not require a ton of nitrogen, so most standard potting mixes will suffice for getting your greens to grow.

Hydorponics: Does particularly well in hydroponic systems such as NFT or rock wool and can usually be harvested within a month after starting.

Aeroponics: Will thrive in aeroponic systems.


Water: Requires moderate to high levels of water. Aim for 1 to 1.5″ per week. White Russian is less susceptible to root rot than other varieties of kale, so if you’re experiencing extremely dry periods of weather, don’t be afraid to give your plants a good soaking.

Nutrients: Unlike other leafy greens, kale is not particularly greedy for nitrogen, so applying a balanced fertilizer or organic compost when first planting outdoors and once or twice throughout the growing season should suffice.

Foliar: Is particularly fond of fish emulsion and liquid seaweed foliar. Apply every 3 to 4 weeks for optimal growth. Stop foliar applications about a week prior to harvesting.

Pruning: Although not required, if you are not consistently harvesting your kale, remove older leaves near the bottom of the plant to encourage new growth from the center of the plant.

Mulching: Apply a layer of organic mulch such as straw or wood chips in the late fall to help plants overwinter. Mulch can also be applied in the warmer months to help regulate temperature, but be aware that in heavy rainfall, mulch can trap the water and cause the plants roots to become soggy.



  • Aphids
  • Beet armyworm
  • Cabbage aphid
  • Cabbage looper
  • Cabbage worms
  • Diamondback moth
  • Flea beetles
  • Root knot nematode
  • Root maggots
  • Thrips


  • Alternaria leaf spot
  • Anthracnose
  • Black rot
  • Damping-off
  • Downy mildew
  • Head rot

Deficiency(s): Phosphorus, potassium, and calcium are all common deficiencies you may run into. Tilling the soil before sowing or transplanting with an organic compost will help keep the soil fertile.

Rotation and Companion Plants

Rotation: Avoid rotating kale with other members of the cabbage family as they tend to be susceptible to the same diseases.

Companions: Grows well with lettuce, onions, lettuce, chard, carrots, beets, and most herbs. Avoid planting with pole beans, tomatoes, bush beans, and strawberries.

Harvest and Storage

Harvest: Can be harvested when leaves are about 5″ in length, around a month and a half after planting. Pull downward on leaves as close to the main stalk as possible as any pieces of stem that are left over will continue to draw nutrients from the plant. Continue to harvest throughout the season, avoiding taking more than 1/3 of the plant at a time.

Storage: Leaves can be stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Other Info

Fun Fact: Thanks to a boom in the health food movement in 2012 and 2013 in the US, a company by the name of Tozer Seeds decided to create a new “superfood” by cross-breeding a kale plant with a Brussels sprout and voila! “Kalettes” were born. While this plant hasn’t exactly taken American supermarkets by storm, considering its super-power parents, we wouldn’t be surprised if kalettes started showing up in kitchens across the country in the near future!


Preserve and Prepare

Preserve: Leaves may be blanched and frozen for 8 to 12 months for optimum flavor. Kale may also be dehydrated and crushed up into a powder which can then be used in smoothies, stews, and soups.

Prepare: This plant has quite tough leaves so they will need to be de-spined and massaged before eating if you are planning on consuming them raw. To prepare, simply cut the leaves away from the center stem and chop into smaller pieces. Add some oil (or our favorite, avocado!) and massage into the leaves. Let sit for twenty minutes to a half hour and enjoy. Leaves may also be cut from the stem, chopped, and added into soups and stews. May also be steamed and stir fried. Try baking in the oven on low temperatures to make kale chips!


Nutritional: This plant has been referred to as a “super food” and with good reason. It is packed with vitamin(s) A, K, C, copper, iron, manganese, phosphorous, potassium, protein, and fiber.

Medicinal: Has been linked in some studies to lowering cholesterol levels. Like other members of the brassica family, kale has also been cited as a means to prevent certain types of cancers including prostate, breast, colon, ovary, and bladder.


Because this variety of kale is so tender, it’s a great option for making tasty salads, like this Crunchy Green Tahini Salad!


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